Mar 182013
 
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Charcuterie is one of my favorite things on the planet. I have read recipes for preparing several different types of charcuterie, but I fear I lose steam when it comes to the time commitment. I will leave it to others, but a rustic rillette. I thought…I could do this. I could make this even easier… in steps the slow cooker.

Rillette is like a pate’, but more rustic. The meat is cooked by simmering in stock or fat with aromatics, then smashed with fat to make the spreadable smooth meat that will keep up to three weeks in your fridge. It has a beautiful layer of fat poured on top. Almost like it was sealing in the goodness of the meat underneath. I couldn’t be more happy with the slow cooker version. I love how little I fussed to make it, but how much depth of flavor it had. It is so great to have a jar in the fridge to pull out for a snack or light meal.

I always like having some thing that is pickled with it to compliment the fullness of the rillette. In the photo above, I chopped up some pickled garlic scapes that I had gotten at the farmers market to serve on top of the rillette and toast. I use the scapes in a so many ways, my son rolls his eyes when he sees me fish for the jar in the fridge.

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In your slow cooker:

1 large leek, sliced
1 fresh thyme, small bunch
3 bay leaves
1 celery stalk, rough chopped
8 pepper corns
5 whole cloves
1 onion, medium, rough chopped
3 lbs. boneless pork butt
Kosher salt, to taste.
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
1 veal soup bone (optional)

1. Set on low for 6-8 hours.
2. Pull out meat and set aside.
3. Drain fat that gathered in the cooker through a fine sieve.
4. Let meat cool. Pull apart
5. Attach a paddle to your stand mixer.
6. Place meat and a big pinch of salt.
7. Turn the mixer on medium and break up the meat.
8. Add strained fat, a little at a time, if needed to help aid breaking it down and make smoother.
9. Add a half pint jar of your favorite preserve. I used Apple Onion Jam from American Spoon. I bet a sour cherry jam would work as well.
10. Blend with meat. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
11. Place in clean jars.
12. Pour the strained fat on top of meat to seal it in.
13. Store in fridge up to three weeks.

Now wasn’t that easy. Very fun.

So pull up a chair and a toast point, Elizabeth

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Jan 152012
 
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I have to share this hard to believe story with my fellow foodies. My friend, let’s call him Mark, confided in me the most peculiar aspect of his childhood.  Mark knew what he would be eating every day of his childhood. His mother cooked the exact same thing everyday of the week his entire life in his parents home. This took a while to sink into my foodie soul and conscious.  Mark had cereal for breakfast seven days of the week.  He had bologna or turkey sandwich, only, everyday for lunch. Not even an apple. They never had fruit in their house. Vegetables only came from a can.

Dinner…

Monday: frank and beans.
Tuesday: mac and cheese (from a box, mind you).
Wednesday: chili from a can with fritos
Thursday: hamburger on a bun with some store purchased coleslaw
Friday: fish filet with canned corn
Saturday: hot dog and chips
Sunday: Frozen pizza

No variation to the menu, ever. It was the same menu every week, week in and week out. It never changed his entire childhood. They didn’t even cook something different on Thanksgiving. Thanksgiving, no turkey. I have a hard time believe that these people are not missing some kind of gene for passion. How did they even find each other to marry?

Mark never went to a restaurant with his parents. They thought it was a waste of money. Mark loved eating over at his friend’s house, but his brother feared it and would avoid it at all cost. Mark  loved the food he was served at the dorm cafeteria when he went off to college. He grow up with such a disconnect from food as pleasure, he was insatiable. He would gorge himself on fresh fruit and would invent a new salad everyday from the array at the salad bar. The first time he had pot roast and mashed potatoes, he had three helpings. He went home with a friend for Thanksgiving and he had his first Thanksgiving meal. He was simply God smacked. Mark said he barely spoke a word at that first Thanksgiving meal and he had to do everything in his power not to cry.  He had only seen pictures of such an event.

Mark’s parents have never been overweight or even fluctuated a few pounds in their weight. They never ate out at a restaurant. That is a waste of money. They never travel to see their adult children. They have never have ever change their diet to this day. They are not close with their children.

 

 

Is the feeding our family the first way we show them love? How we nurture their soul? How we connect with people? Certainly, this family did not use food to celebrate,  console, or masque any emotions that pop up… now everyone in the room turns and looks at me. Okay, okay, guilty as charged.

Bless my father for raising me around some of the most interesting chefs and restaurant people in the US. Bless my mother. Her own passion for food and desire not to eat the same thing everyday, lead to a childhood with an amazing exploration of the world’s cuisines coming from my mother’s kitchen. Pork chops and sauerkraut was something that was an event in our household when I was growing up. The smell of this simmering would make all of us come out of our rooms and gather at the dinner table.

There was a point  that my mother was cooking for 9 people everyday and she would cook this in the electric fry pan. It really helped free up the oven for the rest of the meal. I am a big slow cooker fan. My mom would serve this with mashed potatoes. I have a Czech friend who would simmer dumplings in the sauerkraut while it cooked. I love that idea.

My version is easy, stick to your ribs fare, but on top of it, it is healthy homemade food. I spent ten minutes putting it together in the morning and we have a hearty dinner in the evening.

It is the morning…

Pull out your slow cooker and a skillet.

1. Season 4-6 pork loin chops with salt and pepper.
2. Heat a skillet with some olive oil.
3. Sear the pork chops on both sides. Not cooking, just browning the outside of chop.
4. In the slow cooker add:
2 cups sauerkraut, that had been rinsed
2 cups shredded cabbage
1 cup finely chopped onion
1 apple, grated
1/2 cup carrot, grated
2 gloves garlic, finely chopped
8-10 peppercorns
1-2 bay leaves
1/2 cup chicken broth
1 T. brown sugar (optional)
5. Place the chops on top, cover and set slow cooker for 6-8 hours.
6. Serve to your family around the dinner table and enjoy each other.

Mark’s brother never developed a taste for fruit and vegetables, but owns a diner. He married one of the waitresses are raising their child in the business. Mark, is an avid runner and his partner is a party planner. They have huge Thanksgiving gatherings and Mark does all the cooking.

The simple act of gathering around the table to share a meal is an important thing. It is love. Please join me anytime around my table.

Pull up a chair, Elizabeth

Nov 072011
 
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It is the time of year that calls for us to pull out our slowcookers and make hearty stews of tender meats and vegetables. I had a wonderful reader say what she loves about the growing season is that it starts and ends with greens. I couldn’t agree more. I don’t think that I even had kale until I was in my thirties, but I have grow to just love it. The heartiness in it’s texture calls for it to be cooked for a period of time. Outrageously good for you and super filling. I love incorporating it in our meals. My youngest son does not like spinach ever, but loves kale. He says that spinach makes him gag.  I still make him try it now and then.

This chicken, sausage & kale dish can feed an army for a reasonable price. I put everything into the slow cooker in the morning and then at dinner time cooked up some pasta to add in. It was done that easy. This is bowl of love and would not have any hesitation in serving this to my quests.

My favorite way to flavor kale is to add a piece of smokey meat and some wine while it simmers. I am lucky I have a super market close to me that always has smoked turkey legs and necks available at a great price. I like to use ham hocks as well, but use the turkey necks more often to reduce my cholesteral a bit. I am always shocked how much meat I get off the turkey necks. They add flavor and meat. Hearty, hearty goodness. YUM.

In the morning:

Brown the outer layer of six chicken thighs, lightly seasoned with salt and pepper. I usually get skinless to cut the saturated fat. Remember browning adds flavor to any dish.

Brown the outer layer of six sausages of your choice.

Start layering in slow-cooker:

chicken thighs
one bunch of kale, cleaned, de-stemmed & finely chopped
1/2 an onion, chopped
6 gloves of garlic
smoked turkey neck
1 t. red pepper flakes
second bunch of kale, cleaned, de-stemmed & finely chopped
sausages
1 cup dry white wine
1 cup chicken broth

Cover and set slow-cooker for 6 hours or longer.

20 minutes before eating:

Bring a pan of water to boil to cook pasta. Make sure to have plenty of salt in the water. This is the only time your pasta can get seasoned. Cook 1 lb. of pasta to al dente.

While cooking pasta, stir kale in the slow-cooker. Taste and adjust seasonings while pulling out the smoky necks on a plate. The smoky necks do add an amount of sodium, so I like to only add at this stage, if necessary. Let necks cool for a bit and then pull meat off the bones and return the meat to the slow-cooker.

After you drain noodles, stir into the slow-cooker. Then serve. This is also great to set up on a buffet as well and let people help themselves.

Pull out your slow-cooker or pull up a chair, Elizabeth